While I was in Canada some gentlemen were there from the Lower
Provinces--Nova Scotia, that is, and New Brunswick--agitating the
subject of another great line of railway, from Quebec to Halifax.
The project is one in favor of which very much may be said. In a
national point of view an Englishman or a Canadian cannot but
regret that there should be no winter mode of exit from, or
entrance to, Canada, except through the United States. The St.
Lawrence is blocked up for four or five months in winter, and the
steamers which run to Quebec in the summer run to Portland during
the season of ice. There is at present no mode of public
conveyance between the Canadas and the Lower Provinces; and an
immense district of country on the borders of Lower Canada, through
New Brunswick, and into Nova Scotia, is now absolutely closed
against civilization, which by such a railway would be opened up to
the light of day. We all know how much the want of such a road was
felt when our troops were being forwarded to Canada during the last
winter. It was necessary they should reach their destination
without delay; and as the river was closed, and the passing of
troops through the States was of course out of the question, that
long overland journey across Nova Scotia and New Brunswick became a
necessity. It would certainly be a very great thing for British
interests if a direct line could be made from such a port as
Halifax, a port which is open throughout the whole year, up into
the Canadas. If these colonies belonged to France or to any other
despotic government, the thing would be done. But the colonies do
not belong to any despotic government.

Such a line would, in fact, be a continuance of the Grand Trunk;
and who that looks at the present state of the finances of the
Grand Trunk can think it to be on the cards that private enterprise
should come forward with more money--with more millions? The idea
is that England will advance the money, and that the English House
of Commons will guarantee the interest, with some counter-guarantee
from the colonies that this interest shall be duly paid. But it
would seem that, if such colonial guarantee is to go for anything,
the colonies might raise the money in the money market without the
intervention of the British House of Commons.

Montreal is an exceedingly good commercial town, and business there
is brisk. It has now 85,000 inhabitants. Having said that of it,
I do not know what more there is left to say. Yes; one word there
is to say of Sir William Logan, the creator of the Geological
Museum there, and the head of all matters geological throughout the
province. While he was explaining to me with admirable perspicuity
the result of investigations into which he had poured his whole
heart, I stood by, understanding almost nothing, but envying
everything. That I understood almost nothing, I know he perceived.
That, ever and anon, with all his graciousness, became apparent.
But I wonder whether he perceived also that I did envy everything.
I have listened to geologists by the hour before--have had to
listen to them, desirous simply of escape. I have listened, and
understood absolutely nothing, and have only wished myself away.
But I could have listened to Sir William Logan for the whole day,
if time allowed. I found, even in that hour, that some ideas found
their way through to me, and I began to fancy that even I could
become a geologist at Montreal.

Over and beyond Sir William Logan, there is at Montreal for
strangers the drive round the mountain, not very exciting, and
there is the tubular bridge over the St. Lawrence. This, it must
be understood, is not made in one tube, as is that over the Menai
Straits, but is divided into, I think, thirteen tubes. To the eye
there appear to be twenty-five tubes; but each of the six side
tubes is supported by a pier in the middle. A great part of the
expense of the bridge was incurred in sinking the shafts for these
piers.



CHAPTER V.

UPPER CANADA.


Ottawa is in Upper Canada, but crossing the suspension bridge from
Ottawa into Hull, the traveler is in Lower Canada. It is therefore
exactly in the confines, and has been chosen as the site of the new
government capital very much for this reason. Other reasons have
no doubt had a share in the decision. At the time when the choice
was made Ottawa was not large enough to create the jealousy of the
more populous towns. Though not on the main line of railway, it
was connected with it by a branch railway, and it is also connected
with the St. Lawrence by water communication. And then it stands
nobly on a magnificent river, with high, overhanging rock, and a
natural grandeur of position which has perhaps gone far in
recommending it to those whose voice in the matter has been
potential. Having the world of Canada from whence to choose the
site of a new town, the choosers have certainly chosen well. It is
another question whether or no a new town should have been deemed
necessary.

Perhaps it may be well to explain the circumstances under which it
was thought expedient thus to establish a new Canadian capital. In
1841, when Lord Sydenham was Governor-General of the provinces, the
two Canadas, separate till then, were united under one government.
At that time the people of Lower or French Canada, and the people
of Upper or English Canada, differed much more in their habits and
language than they do now. I do not know that the English have
become in any way Gallicized, but the French have been very
materially Anglicized. But while this has been in progress


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